Day 38, Itasca State Park, Park Rapids, MN - 79 miles

It's been great being able to share Minnesota's fantastic bike trails with friends.  Today's ride started right where we left off, on the Paul Bunyan Trail.  The cue sheet said to stay on the trail for 20 miles but I could see from a map that we could stay on it for 45 miles then meet up with the official route so that's what Mary and I did.  I am very glad we did as we had a lovely, flat, shaded ride with no traffic for most of the day.  When we finally rejoined the route, we were on a road with fairly low traffic but very wide, nice shoulders.  Seeing signs for Itasca State Park made me realize just how far we had ridden and what we had accomplished.  Not everyone rode every mile but we all did what we could or wanted to do.  Our riding styles were very different but at the end of the day, we sat down together as a family, telling stories about what we saw and did.  It's a great way to travel and a great bunch of people to travel with.

Headwaters

I had been to the headwaters before so I knew to expect the visitor's center and the crowds.  There was a group of women motorcyclists splashing in the water and taking group photos.  Shauna's dad and other family members met us with champagne to celebrate our arrival.  Seeing the joy on my fellow rider's faces, although not unexpected, was a treat.  The final leg of our journey was a six mile ride on Itasca's less than pristine trails from the headwaters to the Douglas Lodge.  We went as a pack, some having had more champagne than others, but we went slow and all arrived safely.

Our group

We had our closing banquet at the Douglas Lodge restaurant, which had its share of walleye and wild rice on the menu.  The five SAG drivers got up and gave their rendition of what a typical day was like from their point of view ("bye-bye-bye, drive-drive-drive, wait-wait-wait, stop-stop-stop, come-come-come, wash-wash-wash, eat-eat-eat, pee-pee-pee, wash-wash-wash, go-go-go") and the rider's point of view ("pump-pump-pump, ride-ride-ride, stop-stop-stop, wash-wash-wash, eat-eat-eat, drink-drink-drink, pee-pee-pee, wash-wash-wash, ride-ride-ride").  Carol told funny stories and talked logistics.  Barb Kassel, our sous-chef, did not sing, which was quite sad and unlike her.

My room was in a four-plex, where there were two very small beds very close to each other, and a common porch shared with some young men.  My roommate for the night was a rather, um, loud sleeper so I had the opportunity to go for a walk at 2am and enjoy the great outdoors.  I was sure I was being stalked by a coyote so I didn't stay out long.  No matter.  Breakfast the next day was a great buffet, and the 5 hour bus ride to the Minneapolis airport was spent with friends.

Abby on the bus

Pat, Penny and Carolyn spent the night at my house before catching their planes the next day.  Pam and I were lucky to have Bernadette and Yolande spend three extra days with us before we drove them to Duluth for the next leg of their journey.  While here they remarked that Minneapolis has more biking than Amsterdam, something I was very amazed and proud to hear.  Ever the gracious guests, Yolande even made a gift of her Holland-colored cap to me.

Empty chairs waiting for friends

Even with the route troubles I had during this trip, it was one of the best WomanTours has sponsored.  Because safety has to be number one on this type of adventure, I can't say I would ever travel with this company again.  But I have gained confidence in finding my own routes, made new friendships, and strengthened old ones.  Overall the trip was a success.

Day 37, Pine River, MN - 68 miles

After a rest day in Little Falls, which was quite restful since there wasn't a lot to do there, we headed off on quiet country roads.  The choice of routes was a little questionable and at mile 35 we were routed through Bemidji to get to the Paul Bunyan trail.  I had looked at a map beforehand so I knew we didn't have to go through town to get on the trail and Mary and I took the half block detour, joined the trail early and avoided a lot of the unpleasant traffic.

Once on the trail, it was 32 miles of paved perfection.  The scenery was beautiful and the only traffic was the occasional bicycle going in the other direction.  We passed through three or four towns with shopping districts right on the trail, including Nisswa with its "Pretty Good Shopping," where Penny, Pat and I stopped for a filling lunch at Adirondack Coffee. After lunch we were back on the trail leaving it only to pull into the parking lot of our hotel.

Bernadette

Other than the hotel, Pine River seems to have only a Shamp's Meat Market (which is supposed to be quite good) and an assisted living facility (I'm not so sure on its quality).  My friend, Jane, who lives in the area part time and paid me a surprise visit, said the quotient of liberals skyrocket when we rolled into town.  We entertained ourselves, or rather Bernadette and Yolande entertained us, by hosting the Dutch Dollar Store, a way for them to raise a few dollars and us to get ride of our heavy left over supplies.  I was able to purchase Carol's cowboy hat and a half-used bag of lavender Epsom salts for dirt cheap.

Me and my new hat (with Penny)

Tomorrow is our last riding day, which is sad.  I have found a route which, at least on google, appears to be magical.  We'll see if it's true.

Day 35, Little Falls, MN - 85 miles

We have been so lucky with the weather and our luck continued today.  The forecast was for light winds at our backs and partly cloudy skies with highs in the lower 80s.  For the most part that is what we got except the cloud cover was even more until afternoon, keeping the temperatures nice and cool for most of the day.

Our route is partly along the Adventure Cycling Northern Tier route which guides bikers across the northern states from Washington to Maine.  Local residents are used to seeing bikers but one farmer has gone above the call of duty: he has build a bunkhouse for bikers. Just outside of Dalbo, MN, Donn Olson converted his old dairy barn into a shelter, and quite a luxurious one, for bikers to spend a night or two.   He has a solar shower, sells dirt cheap snacks, and provides coffee, TV and WiFi.  He does it because he loves hearing rider's stories and being kind.

Adventure Cycling Bunkhouse

We continued along the country roads past more Gold'n Plump chicken houses than I knew existed.  At mile 65 or so, I was getting pretty tired so my riding companion, Mary D, and I stopped at the Ramey general store for a restful drink then continued on.  My energy returned and we pulled into Little Falls by about 2pm.  Because we are such a large group, we are split into two hotels about a half a mile apart.  Unfortunately my luggage was in one hotel and I was booked in the other.  Carol, our ever working guide, was kind enough to walk my luggage to the other hotel for me.

Dinner, made by Lynne, was shrimp curry with local cherry pie for dessert.  Tomorrow is a rest day and, although there isn't a lot to do in Little Falls, I am looking forward to it.

Day 34, Cambridge, MN - 59 miles

Minnesota is know for its paved bike trials and lived up to its reputation.  Today's ride was on the Sunrise Prairie Trail and isolated country roads.  Other than a lengthy and social stop at the Nesting Grounds Coffee House in Wyoming, Minnesota, there was nothing else but calm and beauty today.  Check out my photos for highlights.

Day 33, Stillwater, MN - 48 miles

Our route took us a very short 48 miles into Stillwater, Minnesota, home of Michelle Bachmann.  I couldn't deal so I decided to bike home to Minneapolis instead.  It added about 20 miles but I am glad I did it.  I plotted my own course and headed out on the Cannon Valley trail, a paved bike trail which originates in Red Wing.  After 10 miles on that, I wound my way on country roads, and suburban bike trails until reaching historic Fort Snelling, a landmark I pass on my routine bike rides from home.  I must have been very excited to see Pam because I pulled up to my house at 12:30, just in time for lunch.  It was wonderful to call the SAG and tell them I made it, both because I was home and because I knew my friends on the ride were thinking of me.

Pam and I drove out to Stillwater to meet the group for dinner.  I was able to share the evening's activities with Pam and still be in bed by 9 pm.  After all the angst WomanTours has given me on this trip, I still think it's a great organization and I will miss the rides when we are done.

Day 32, Red Wing, MN - 31 miles

Another incredibly short day.  Pat and I rode together and had time to stop for coffee at a bakery in Lake City (location of Lake Pepin, the birthplace of water skiing).

Day 31, Wabasha, MN - 41 miles

Today's ride was supposed to be only 35 miles, which is very short even when we haven't had a rest day the previous day.  I was able to extend it to 41 with some scenic detours. 

Things we saw which we would have missed had we stuck to the cue sheet: Houseboats on the Mississippi, a turtle crossing sign (we've seen a tremendous number of squished turtles), and a "This Road Not Maintained" sign (the road was actually quite nice). 

We would have seen the National Eagle Center in Wabasha anyway.  The center was great but easy to see in just an hour.

The next few days are very short, and we only have one week to go before the end of the trip.  Times goes fast.